2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
OrganiserIFSC
Edition31st
Dates5 April – 27 October 2019
Men bTomoa Narasaki
Women bJanja Garnbret
Team bJapan
Men lAdam Ondra
Women lSeo Chae-hyun
Team lJapan
Men sBassa Mawem
Women sSong Yiling
Team sRussia
Men cTomoa Narasaki
Women cJanja Garnbret
Prev2018
Next2020

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 12 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in Inzai, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season.

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Olympic qualification

For the Tokyo 2020 Olympics athletes can qualify through either the IFSC Combined World Championships, the Olympic Qualifying Event or the Continental Championships. The Olympic Qualifying Event is an invitation only event open to the 22 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit who haven't already qualified.[1][2]

Highlights of the season

In bouldering, at the World Cup in Moscow, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win.[3] At the World Cup in Vail, Garnbret won her sixth consecutive gold medal and became the first climber ever to make a clean sweep of Bouldering World Cup season by winning six out of six events held this year.[4] Moreover, she also became the first female climber to win overall World Cup season titles in lead (2016, 2017, 2018) and bouldering (2019). Ai Mori of Japan, in her first year of open eligibility, made her the World Cup debut in Meiringen, then won her first medal (bronze) at the World Cup in Wujiang, China.

In speed, at the World Cup in Chongqing, YiLing Song of China set a new world record of 7.101s, breaking the previous world record of 7.32s set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wroclaw and Anouck Jaubert of France at the 2018 Speed World Cup in Moscow.[5][6] At the World Cup in Xiamen, Aries Susanti Rahayu of Indonesia set a new world record of 6.995s in the final race, breaking Song's 7.101s, and becoming the first woman in the history of the sport to record a time under 7 seconds.[7][8][9]

In lead, Chaehyun Seo of South Korea, in her first year of open eligibility, made her World Cup debut in Villars and claimed her first medal (silver) there. Then, she won the next 4 Lead World Cups and placed third in the last one, finishing her debut season with a 2019 Lead World Cup Season Champion title. Also in her debut season, Natsuki Tanii of Japan earned her first medal (bronze) in Briançon and continued her consistent performance throughout the season and thus claiming third place of the overall lead season ranking. Other notable athletes in their World Cup debut season: Ai Mori (JPN), YueTong Zhang (CHN).

Overview

[10][11]

No.LocationGoldSilverBronze
1Meiringen, Switzerland
April, 5–6
BMAdam Ondra4T4z 10 9Tomoa Narasaki3T3z 7 6Rei Sugimoto2T3z 6 7
WJanja Garnbret3T4z 6 6Akiyo Noguchi3T4z 9 12Shauna Coxsey2T3z 3 4
2Moscow, Russia
April, 12–14
BMJernej Kruder4T4z 8 6Adam Ondra3T4z 5 7Yoshiyuki Ogata3T3z 6 5
WJanja Garnbret4T4z 4 4Shauna Coxsey4T4z 6 6Fanny Gibert4T4z 6 6
SMBassa Mawem5.730Vladislav Deulin11.545Aspar Jaelolo6.083
WYiLing Song7.389Anouck Jaubert7.682Iuliia Kaplina8.233
3Chongqing, China
April, 26–28
BMManuel Cornu3T4z 5 5Tomoa Narasaki3T4z 5 6Anze Peharc3T4z 10 10
WJanja Garnbret4T4z 8 6Akiyo Noguchi4T4z 12 9Jessica Pilz3T4z 8 11
SMAlfian Muhammad5.970Kostiantyn Pavlenko6.315Sergey Rukin6.808
WYiLing Song7.673Aleksandra RudzinskafallIuliia Kaplina8.429
4Wujiang, China
May, 3–5
BMTomoa Narasaki3T4z 7 8Kai Harada3T4z 7 13Jakob Schubert1T4z 2 9
WJanja Garnbret4T4z 5 4Akiyo Noguchi3T4z 4 5Ai Mori3T4z 11 9
SMDmitrii Timofeev5.597Bassa Mawem5.810Ludovico Fossali5.856
WAleksandra Rudzinska7.313Aries Susanti Rahayu7.607Anouck Jaubert7.516
5Munich, Germany
May, 18–19
BMJakob Schubert3T4z 7 8Adam Ondra3T3z 3 3Jan Hojer2T4z 4 14
WJanja Garnbret4T4z 5 5Fanny Gibert4T4z 8 7Mia Krampl3T3z 9 9
6Vail, United States
June, 7–8
BMYoshiyuki Ogata4T4z 11 9Tomoa Narasaki3T4z 5 5Jongwon Chon3T4z 6 7
WJanja Garnbret4T4z 9 8Akiyo Noguchi3T4z 5 6Fanny Gibert2T4z 3 9
7Villars, Switzerland
July, 4–6
LMSascha LehmannTopYuFei PanTopAlexander MegosTop
WJanja Garnbret36+Chaehyun Seo35+Ai Mori35+
SMAleksandr Shikov5.542Dmitrii TimofeevfallJan Kriz7.765
WAnouck Jaubert7.660YiLing Song8.415Elizaveta Ivanova7.586
8Chamonix, France
July, 11–13
LMAdam Ondra47+Alexander Megos44Jakob Schubert43+
WChaehyun Seo34+YueTong Zhang34+Jessica Pilz34+
SMAlfian Muhammad5.764QiXin Zhong6.382Vladislav Deulin6.057
WYiLing Song99.000Elizaveta Ivanovafalse startAleksandra Kalucka7.661
9Briançon, France
July, 19–20
LMHidemasa Nishida39+Hiroto Shimizu38+Shuta Tanaka38+
WChaehyun SeoTopJanja GarnbretTopNatsuki Tanii41+
10Kranj, Slovenia
September, 28–29
LMAdam OndraTopKai Harada32Alberto Ginés López31.5
WChaehyun Seo34.5+Jessica Pilz34.5Lucka Rakovec34+
11Xiamen, China
October, 18–20
LMAdam OndraTopTaisei HommaTopTomoa NarasakiTop
WChaehyun SeoTopAkiyo NoguchiTopJain KimTop
SMQiXin Zhong7.208Lev RudatskiyfallVladislav Deulin5.635
WAries Susanti Rahayu6.995YiLing Song9.032Mariia Krasavina7.947
12Inzai, Japan
October, 26–27
LMHiroto Shimizu38+Alberto Ginés López36+Stefano Ghisolfi32+
WJain KimTopJanja Garnbret39Chaehyun Seo37+
OVERALLBM Tomoa Narasaki340.00Adam Ondra335.00Yoshiyuki Ogata264.00
W Janja Garnbret500.00Akiyo Noguchi320.00Fanny Gibert308.00
LM Adam Ondra300.00Alberto Ginés López256.00Sean McColl206.00
W Chaehyun Seo480.00Janja Garnbret352.00Natsuki Tanii243.00
SM Bassa Mawem329.00Vladislav Deulin312.00Alfian Muhammad286.00
W YiLing Song460.00Anouck Jaubert355.00Aries Susanti Rahayu333.00
CM Tomoa Narasaki1728Adam Ondra2072Jakob Schubert27720
W Janja Garnbret255Akiyo Noguchi4104Jessica Pilz14400
NATIONAL TEAMSBA Japan1693Slovenia1359France766
LA Japan1695Slovenia988South Korea758
SA Russia1637China1375France1004

Bouldering

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[12]

RankNamePointsMeiringenMoscowChongqingWujiangMunichVail
1Tomoa Narasaki3402. 80( — )2. 801. 100( — )2. 80
2Adam Ondra3351. 1002. 80( — )14. 242. 805. 51
align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3Yoshiyuki Ogata2648. 40align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 65(29. 1)9. 3715. 221. 100
4Chon Jong-won2285. 5110. 34(15. 22)11. 316. 47align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 65
5Kokoro Fujii2274. 559. 376. 475. 51( — )9. 37
6Jan Hojer223(21. 9 *)12. 2812. 286. 47align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 654. 55
7Alexey Rubtsov2147. 4311. 315. 5110. 344. 55( — )
8Anže Peharc20515. 224. 55align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 6520. 125. 51( — )
9Jernej Kruder19111. 311. 100(34. 0)16. 2011. 3121. 9
10Jakob Schubert18447. 027. 318. 16align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 651. 100( — )

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[13]

RankNamePointsMeiringenMoscowChongqingWujiangMunichVail
1Janja Garnbret5001. 1001. 1001. 1001. 1001. 100(1. 100)
2Akiyo Noguchi3202. 80( — )2. 802. 80( — )2. 80
align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3Fanny Gibert3084. 55align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 657. 43(13. 25) *2. 80align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 65
4Futaba Ito2069. 376. 475. 517. 43( — )12. 28
5Jessica Pilz20321. 9 *5. 51align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 655. 5112. 27 *( — )
6Petra Klingler1805. 518. 404. 5510. 34( — )( — )
7Lučka Rakovec16316. 204. 5512. 2815. 228. 38 *( — )
8Katja Kadic16112. 2819. 146. 4713. 25 *6. 47( — )
9Julia Chanourdie15717. 17 *( 31. 0 )14. 246. 474. 5519. 14
10Shauna Coxsey145align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3. 652. 80( — )( — )( — )( — )
10Ievgeniia Kazbekova14513. 2610. 32 *25. 5 *11. 315. 51( — )

* = Joint place with another athlete

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[14]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNamePointsMeiringenMoscowChongqingWujiangMunichVail
1Japan1693322210321435(86)405
2Slovenia1359213331280201334(109)
align="center" style="background: #cc9966| 3France766(75)151205104149157
4Austria591759984137196(15)
5Germany534638074(61)131186
6United States of America4681024989(38)48180
7Russian Federation39643136557983(—)
8Republic of Korea3536877(34)784783
9Czech Republic33610081(0)248051
10Great Britain33010111934967(6)

Lead

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[15]

RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1Adam Ondra300.00( — )1. 100.001. 100.00( — )1. 100.00( — )
2Alberto Ginés López256.002. 80.005. 51.003. 65.0022. 9.005. 51.0026. (5.00)
3Sean McColl206.006. 47.0026. (5.00)4. 55.005. 51.007. 43.0021. 10.00
4Kai Harada195.0025. 6.004. 55.002. 80.00( — )8. 40.0019. 14.00
5Stefano Ghisolfi190.003. 65.0013. 25.006. 47.0015. 22.0026. (5.00)11. 31.00
6Hiroto Shimizu180.001. 100.00( — )( — )2. 80.00( — )( — )
7Kokoro Fujii165.0020. 12.0011. 31.005. 51.00( — )11. 31.008. 40.00
7Alexander Megos165.00( — )( — )( — )16. 20.002. 80.003. 65.00
9Sean Bailey158.008. 40.008. 40.0014. 24.006. 47.0024. 7.00( — )
10Sascha Lehmann152.00( — )( — )( — )13. 26.0013. 26.001. 100.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[16]

RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1Seo Chae-hyun480.003. (65.00)1. 100.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.002. 80.00
2Janja Garnbret352.002. 80.004. 55.0013. (26.00)2. 80.009. 37.001. 100.00
3Natsuki Tanii243.006. 47.005. 51.00( — )3. 65.008. 40.008. 40.00
4Lucka Rakovec226.0016. (20.00)6. 47.003. 65.0014. 24.007. 43.006. 47.00
5Akiyo Noguchi224.004. 55.002. 80.00( — )( — )10. 34.004. 55.00
6Ai Mori220.0020. 12.009. 37.005. 51.00( — )4. 55.003. 65.00
7Zhang Yuetong207.00( — )7. 43.00( — )6. 47.002. 80.009. 37.00
8Jain Kim206.001. 100.003. 65.009. 37.00( — )( — )27. 4.00
9Mia Krampl189.0022. 9.0024. (7.00)7. 43.004. 55.0011. 31.005. 51.00
10Jessica Pilz176.00( — )( — )2. 80.00( — )3. 65.0011. 31.00

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[17]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1Japan1695345368306375(220)301
2Slovenia988(109)112210224139303
3Republic of Korea758174206137116(106)125
4United States of America61215110375179104(22)
5Austria525(47)531439116672
6Czech Republic48418136146(0)14737
7France44066(44)6511211186
8Italy434115909187(29)51
9Germany381(24)79305113883
10Great Britain3606862(31)7511045

Speed

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[18]

RankNAMEPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1Bassa Mawem329.005. 51.007. 43.004. 55.002. 80.0015. (22.00)1. 100.00
2Vladislav Deulin312.003. 65.003. 65.005. 51.005. 51.0014. (24.00)2. 80.00
3Alfian Muhammad286.008. 40.001. 100.0020. 12.0010. 34.001. 100.0024. (7.00)
4QiXin Zhong285.001. 100.002. 80.007. 43.0024. 7.004. 55.00( — )
5Dmitrii Timofeev283.007. 43.0016. 20.002. 80.001. 100.0016. (20.00)8. 40.00
6Reza Alipour236.006. 47.0023. (8.00)8. 40.004. 55.005. 51.007. 43.00
7Sergey Rukin234.004. 55.006. 47.0016. 20.00( — )3. 65.006. 47.00
8Aleksandr Shikov203.0012. 28.0014. 24.001. 100.00( — )( — )5. 51.00
9Kostiantyn Pavlenko181.0022. 9.0011. 31.0019. 14.006. 47.002. 80.00( — )
10Jan Kriz162.0024. (7.00)18. 16.003. 65.007. 43.0018. 16.0015. 22.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[19]

RankNAMEPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1Song Yiling460.002. 80.001. 100.002. 80.0016. (20.00)1. 100.001. 100.00
2Anouck Jaubert355.004. 55.0016. (20.00)1. 100.00style="background: #cc9966|3. 65.004. 55.002. 80.00
style="background: #cc9966|3Aries Susanti Rahayu333.001. 100.004. 55.0019. (14.00)2. 80.005. 51.006. 47.00
4Elizaveta Ivanova261.0029. (2.00)2. 80.00style="background: #cc9966|3. 65.0012. 28.009. 37.005. 51.00
5Di Niu201.007. 43.0015. 22.004. 55.006. 47.0010. 34.00( — )
6Anna Tsyganova197.00( — )( — )6. 47.004. 55.008. 40.004. 55.00
7Aleksandra Kałucka194.0020. (12.00)style="background: #cc9966|3. 65.0015. 22.008. 40.0014. 24.007. 43.00
8Patrycja Chudziak188.00( — )7. 43.007. 43.005. 51.0016. 20.0011. 31.00
9Aleksandra Mirosław180.00( — )( — )( — )1. 100.002. 80.00( — )
10Iuliia Kaplina172.0018. 16.00( — )( — )13. 26.00style="background: #cc9966|3. 65.00style="background: #cc9966|3. 65.00

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2019:[20]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1Russian Federation1637318294383293(292)349
2People's Republic of China1375343268263209292(180)
style="background: #cc9966|3France1004204(113)219215129237
4Indonesia979172232(46)187250138
5Poland874(59)210149217184114
6Ukraine3283586615789( — )
7Iran25751(8)40555160
8Italy250(0)1550831290
9Ecuador19526653536(22)33
10Czech Republic162(7)1665431622

Combined

The 22 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit (combined) who haven't already qualified for the Olympics will be invited to the Toulouse Olympic Qualifying Event.[21][2][22]

Men

RankNameNationPoints
1Tomoa NarasakiJPN1728.0
2Adam OndraCZE2072.0
style="background: #cc9966|3Jakob SchubertAUT27720.0
4Kai HaradaJPN34020.0
5Kokoro FujiiJPN84700.0
6Sean McCollCAN136800.0
7Pan YufeiCHN215040.0
8Jan HojerGER447174.0
9William BosiGBR478224.0
10Sascha LehmannSUI550800.0
11Meichi NarasakiJPN588000.0
12Manuel CornuFRA590976.0
13Rei SugimotoJPN894348.0
14Alexander MegosGER1018440.0
15Nikolai YarilovetsRUS1434672.0
16Chon Jong-wonKOR1441440.0
17Alberto Ginés LópezESP1536732.0
18Keita DohiJPN2192400.0
19Bassa MawemFRA2475252.0
20Yannick FlohéGER2830464.0
21Alfian MuhammadINA2877370.0
22Stefano GhisolfiITA3201660.0
23Anže PeharcSLO3388027.5
24Nathaniel ColemanUSA3489882.0
25Sean BaileyUSA3516480.0
26Jernej KruderSLO3845400.0
27Alexey RubtsovRUS4433000.0
28Zhong QixinCHN5457426.0
29Aleksandr ShikovRUS6776601.75
30Mickaël MawemFRA8967024.0

Women

RankNameNationPoints
1Janja GarnbretSLO255.0
2Akiyo NoguchiJPN4104.0
style="background: #cc9966|3Jessica PilzAUT14400.0
4Miho NonakaJPN78400.0
5Lucka RakovecSLO168000.0
6Zhang YuetongCHN249600.0
7Fanny GibertFRA310464.0
8Jain KimKOR325728.0
9Julia ChanourdieFRA380160.0
10Ai MoriJPN491400.0
11Mia KramplSLO615384.0
12Futaba ItoJPN655200.0
13Shauna CoxseyGBR910350.0
14Petra KlinglerSUI1077375.0
15Kyra CondieUSA1296000.0
16Anouck JaubertFRA1328040.0
17Song YilingCHN1517092.5
18Sa SolKOR1756160.0
19Ashima ShiraishiUSA2275008.0
20Aries Susanti RahayuINA2357178.0
21Ievgeniia KazbekovaUKR2698920.0
22Laura RogoraITA3742200.0
23Alannah YipCAN4572288.0
24Elnaz RekabiIRI4665276.0
25Aleksandra KaluckaPOL6573420.0
26Margo HayesUSA8321670.0
27Sandra LettnerAUT8382528.0
28Vita LukanSLO9080400.0
29Iuliia KaplinaRUS10432224.0
30Oceana MackenzieAUS10795680.0

See also

References

  1. ^ John Burgman (February 18, 2019). "How climbers will be chosen for the 2020 olympics". Climbing.com.
  2. ^ Natalie Berry (November 21, 2019). "IFSC Releases Toulouse Combined Qualifier Startlist". UK Climbing.
  3. ^ "Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow"
  4. ^ "Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-06-12.
  5. ^ "New Women’s Speed World Record by Song Yi Ling"
  6. ^ "New Speed World Record by Gold Medalist YiLing Song"
  7. ^ "Gold for China and a New World Record". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  8. ^ Madu, Zito (2019-10-21). "Watching this speed climbing world record reminds us humans are incredible". SBNation.com. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  9. ^ "Aries takes gold, breaks women's speed climbing world record". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  10. ^ [https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!filter[cat_id]=69&filter[cup]=! "2019 World Cups"]
  11. ^ "RANKINGS: IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP 2019"
  12. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 Men OVERALL Ranking"
  13. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 Women OVERALL Ranking"
  14. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 National Team Ranking"
  15. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N LEAD". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived 2019-07-05 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  16. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N LEAD". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived 2019-07-05 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  17. ^ "IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived 2019-07-05 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  18. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N SPEED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived 2019-07-05 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  19. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N SPEED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived 2019-07-05 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  20. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived 2019-07-05 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  21. ^ "IFSC Combined World Cup Ranking 2019 - ifsc climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  22. ^ "Confirmed qaulified athletes". www.ifsc-climbing.org. November 4, 2019. Retrieved 2019-11-29.